-
Indlæg
-
-
-
-
Jeg har netop købt en MagicShine 878. Har kun haft den med ude én gang, men der virkede det upåklageligt.
Diverse lygter er blevet diskuteret ivrigt i andre tråde, så prøv at læs disse 3 nedenfor, så burde du have et ret godt grundlag for at vide hvad der er godt.
https://www.uvjaegeren.dk/forum/3-gear-snak-her-snakker-vi-om-alt-vores-udstyr/3148-dragonsub-lyste-1600-lumen#4539Generelt er MagicShine vist ret populære, nok til dels på grund af prisen ift. en wisedive. Så i sidste ende handler det nok om hvor meget du har lyst til at slippe.
-
@Eleasmo: jeg har selv en magicshine på 1200 lumen og en på 600 lumen som backup. Jeg har yderst sjældent behov for at have lygten på fuld power. Fiskene skræmmes også lettere hvis du kommer susende gennem vandet med stadionbelysning.
-
Hvis du er i investerings mode, men kvier dig ved at betale for en Wisedive lygte, ville jeg kraftigt overveje en Wisedive Compact c1600
http://www.wisedive.com/wisedive_products_compact_divetorch.htm
Den koster ikke nær så meget, men er en virkelig fed og handy lygte!
Du er velkommen til at skrive direkte til mig for mere Info om modeller og hyggelige priser. Ellers ring på 2540 6590
Mvh./Morfar
-
Hi “Grandpa”!
As we spoke several times about different light options and what-when-how about lights, i decided to put down some line about this.
I will try to make it brief, based on my experience and, luckily, the possibility to have tested a lot of kind of lights in various situations here in Denmark.
Flashlight performances are closely related to your preferred fishing techniques and the environment, visibility etc..
First of all you must see if you fish mostly in daytime or at night.
Daytime:
Stream-fishing – More light is helping to increase contrast with sunlight if you are fishing cods between rocks at depth lower than 4-5m. Cods are easier to spot with a torch that have some power to show-off. A light above 6000 Kelvin will also reflect differently on the torsk skin.
Cave-fishing – a more powerful light will allow you to spot fishes without the need to stick your head inside every hole and, a concentrated beam can easier pass-through muddy water into a disturbed hole. If you are the kind that meticulously inspect every cm of the hole and every hole you meet, then any light is fine for you as far as it is small in size to not impair your field of view.
Flatfish – A powerful torch increase the contrast of the bottom disturbances and, a light above 6000 Kelvin will also reflect differently on fishes like Pighvar and like.
Night time: the game change totally…
Light quantity (number of lumen) does not make much difference if you fish for trouts and other fishes in the shallow. What make a big difference is the intensity of the beam and how wide it is: it is called “half angle”.
A light with a concentrate beam will require less output to illuminate further if you compare with a flashlight with wider beam and, very important, will reflect much less on the suspended particles and will be much more comfortable with low visibility.
Summer dives require that your light has, at least, 2 hours battery time at full power: read the datasheets cautiously as it is quite common to find numbers that do not fit mathematics and electronics postulates…
Shallow water – 500/600 lumen with half-angle ~4 degrees. Narrower beams can reduce too much the field of view and wider beams do not penetrate as much. Trouts are easy pick if they are not scared by too much light and if you can spot them from a distance and push them in good shooting position using the beam as “shepherd stick”.
Deeper water – At night on a 5-10m depth, a strong and concentrate beam will help you to see movement and rocks from the surface and to explore a larger area from above when you dive. Same thing as above for reflection issues. 1500-2500 lumen on a ~4 degree half-angle is what i prefer 90% of the times
Flatfishes – as much light as you can comfortably handle (still reflection issue) and with an half-angle 7-8 degrees or wider if your torch has 2600 lumen or more to illuminate a wider area without moving too much the torch and don’t scare other kind of fishes that may came to lurk around.
Light K level: If you are not going to fish in really muddy waters and underwater photography is not your goal, then a light around 6000-6500 Kelvin is perfect. Warmer light (3000-4500K) is more penetrating and reflect less on the particles but it give you that “warm fireplace” light that is not very nice when fishing.
I use a WiseDive 3300 “Spearo” edition (4 degree half-angle) as primary torch normally set on minimum power and a C1600 as spare or for night dives. I should say that the C1600 is perfectly enough for all night dives and for 99% of the visibility situations i have met in DK…
The advantage of the WiseDive Spearo used at power-step 1 (~550 lumen in my torch) is that the battery last forever and you can comfortably take dives of 4 hours without problems: Last September at the 24h competition we used the same torch all night and was still blinking blue at the end…
Cheers!
P.S. yesterday night on the Sjælland NE coast there was very low visibility and lots of trouts of decent size between 1 and 2 Kg…
Ciao!
-
Hej alle UV hunters!
Jeg er ny i gamet, og afventer stadig en komplet sending af UV-udstyr fra Subprof – dog med undtagelse af en lygte…. Det lader til at være rimelig komplekst og mange meninger om hvilken lygte man skal have – rigtig gode indlæg fra Lamberto og jer andre.
Da jeg er ny er jeg dog nok ikke klar til at smide +2000 kr. i en wisedive klasse lydssværd – og så er mit spørgsmål hvad er second-best? Er alt under magicshine 878 med 1200 lumen håbløst? Hvordan er fx magicshine 810 ift. de andre? Og kan den anbefales som en hæderlig “starter-lygte”?
Glæder mig som en sindssyg til min første dyk – gerne med et junior-lyssværd 🙂
-
-
Hej alle UV hunters!
Jeg er ny i gamet, og afventer stadig en komplet sending af UV-udstyr fra Subprof – dog med undtagelse af en lygte…. Det lader til at være rimelig komplekst og mange meninger om hvilken lygte man skal have – rigtig gode indlæg fra Lamberto og jer andre.
Da jeg er ny er jeg dog nok ikke klar til at smide +2000 kr. i en wisedive klasse lydssværd – og så er mit spørgsmål hvad er second-best? Er alt under magicshine 878 med 1200 lumen håbløst? Hvordan er fx magicshine 810 ift. de andre? Og kan den anbefales som en hæderlig “starter-lygte”?
Glæder mig som en sindssyg til min første dyk – gerne med et junior-lyssværd 🙂Any LED light is fine for you then: just check that you can use rechargeable li-ion batteries with it… or your summer nights are going to be expensive!
Salvimar “Lecoled” is nice and inexpensive and you can always keep is as spare torch in future.
Cheers!
-
-
-
… Er alt under magicshine 878 med 1200 lumen håbløst? …
næh, der er en pæn stribe fisk der i dag er pænt triste over de måske 400lumen min ene lygte kan spytte ud.
Det handler som så meget andet fiskeri, om at have “snøren” i vandet, er du ikke derude, så er det ligegyldigt hvilken lygte. Kunne jeg have fanget dobbelt så mange fisk, med dobbelt så mange lumen? næh… Nå det så er sagt, så er det altid rart med lidt mere power, men ikke strengt nødvendigt. -
[quote=”Njord” post=4950]… Er alt under magicshine 878 med 1200 lumen håbløst? …
næh, der er en pæn stribe fisk der i dag er pænt triste over de måske 400lumen min ene lygte kan spytte ud.
Det handler som så meget andet fiskeri, om at have “snøren” i vandet, er du ikke derude, så er det ligegyldigt hvilken lygte. Kunne jeg have fanget dobbelt så mange fisk, med dobbelt så mange lumen? næh… Nå det så er sagt, så er det altid rart med lidt mere power, men ikke strengt nødvendigt.[/quote]Agree with you: more light does not mean that you can fish better… especially in the conditions met by a beginner.
It is always nice to have lots of light if is needed but it is important also to check other features as battery-time, rechargeable yes/not, recharge time, dimming steps, etc. Some feature is more important than the “brute force”…
Lot of the confusion came from misuderstanding the “Lux” and “Lumen” definitions: Divetorches.com explains it quite well.
As CoO of WiseLed/WiseDive i have access to all the measuring tools for lumen, lux and half-angle: if anybody can borrow me his not-wisedive torch i would be happy to get a report and publish it on divingtorches.com. Don’t worry… I will borrow you a C1600 or Wisedive 3300 for that days! :cheer:
Morfar: Why you don’t arrange an open night meeting next long-weekend where we can test some different lights? I have also Wisedive torches on steroids with 5000 lumen that we can test and compare to a “small” C1600… it may be interesting. Venue can be København harbor? We need someone that bring some torches because i only have Wisedive. I can also bring the new WiseDive Spearo to make a small unofficial premier: it is not available yet on the webshop.
Cheers!
-
-
-
-
Jeg går ud fra at de fleste har et kørekort. hvor mange af jer kører med det lange lys når det er tåget?
Under vandet er det mega “tåget”
Og handeler det ikke dybest set om, at det er spooky der ude om natten. Og en store lygte hjælper mod at nakkehårene rejser, sig selv om de er våde.
Jeg har bygget mine lygter selv,det var billig og jeg bestemmer selv hvor megt de skal lyse.Hvor længe de kan lyse er næsten det vigtigste.
Ens pupiller indstiller sig efter hvor meget lys der er på stedet. kikker du i din lygtet ødelægger dit natttesyn og du ser mindre godt i et stykke tid.
lygtespørgsmålet er ikke nem at svare på.Umberto har ret i at man skal prøve det selv på stedet
evet. låne en lygte før man køber .Man prøve kører vel også biler før man køber. -
Christian> lyder interessant med lygte byggeriet, har du mere info på hvordan du har gjort? Har selv overvejet det ift. når man blot padler rundt på det lave, der er jo ikke ligefrem behov for grej der kan klare 30+ meters tryk, her er det netop som du skriver, egentligt bare rarest at den bare lyser længe.
-
Jeg har bygget to forskellige lygter.Den ene med o-ringe og den anden med en fladpakkning.
Husene er af rustfast stål, lyskilden stammer fra 2 Harals Nyborg LED til 39 kr. og 250 lumen/spot.
Spottene havde 3 X 2 led på aluminiumprint (vigtig de skal køles)Dem har jeg placeret cirkulærtpå en aluplade 15 mm tyk.
Batterieholderen er fremstillet af lexan, det samme som glasset. hele lygten fylder 6 X 30cm.
og vejer ca 1,2 kg.
afbryderen er i bunden indvendig(ingen genemføring)
Jeg har bygget en strømstyring som består af 2 kondenstorer,2 modstande, 1 IC. Jeg tro jeg kan øge lumen en del (kan ikke måle lumen) strømmen stiger og brændetiden falder.
med de 500 lumen lyser den in mere end 2 timer og i Luften bliver den 52°C varm.hilsen Christian
-
Lyder som et spændende projekt du har haft gang i der 🙂
Næste gang du bygger må du meget gerne lave en billed med tekst-guide. Jeg vil ihvertfald læse den med interesse :cheer:
On topic:
Har selv dykket natdyk med denne 375 kr billige lygte på 125 lumen. Nej den lyser ikke nær så kraftigt som de “store” lumen-lygter, men det har da ikke afholdt mig fra at tage min andel havørreder :cheer:
http://shop.kogedykkercenter.dk/produkter/26-lygter/1067-sl3-eled-lygte-sort/
http://www.aquasyd.dk/show_article.php?catid=185&articleid=4085 -
Jeg overvejer selv at tilføje en lugte til grejet. Er på jag efter en billig begynder løsning der ikke er for fesen. Har kigget lidt på ebay… Men har ikke en skid erfaring. Er der nogen der kan komme med et bud på om det her er spild af penge?
-
-
-
Heysan,
Jeg dykker normalt steder hvor der er pissemørkt og gerne omkring 50 meter, jeg bruger en Magicshine MJ-810E, og en Magicshine MJ-852B Backup. 810,eren er 1000 lumen og jeg har den aldrig sat på andet end medium styrke, da vandet herhjemme kaster rigtigt meget lys tilbage i hovedet på dig selv, er der faktisk for meget lys på fuld styrke i min 810’er. Igen er det smag og behag. Jeg købte mine dykkerlygter her: http://www.lygteshoppen.com/index.php
Jeg behøver faktisk ikke mere lys og skulle jeg endeligt købe noget der kostede 5000+ ville jeg nok kigge efter en Kanister løsning fra Agir eller Light Monkey. alternativt har de også Light Monkey backup lygterne her som eftersigende skulle være ret gode …..
-
Altså til den pris vil jeg da gerne vide noget mere om den lygte hvis du køber den … det ser spændende ud. Dog vil jeg sige at XM-L T6 Dioden ALDRIG har været 1800 lumens det er samme diode, der sidder i Magicshines 810E og den er på 1000 lumen. (den jeg selv dykker med) så det må være “1800 Kinesiske fusker lumens” …. Igen til den pris prøv den og virker det ikke så vælg nogle af dem du får anbefalet her … f.eks 810E
Hvis du køber den så skriv en anmeldelse af den her 😉
-
Magicshine – MJ-878 koster 1600 på ebay og du vil aldrig fortryde. Jeg har selv købt min på ebay og er overrasket over hvor god den er. Men nogle Wisedive lygter er bedre. 2200 LM er dog tilstrækkeligt.
-
The Cree XM-L T6 LED have an output of 280 Lumen@700mA and can give you 910 lumen@3000mA… above 3000mA, after very short time it burns. No way that you can take out 1000 lumen, let alone 1800!
They probably mixed-up Lumen and Lux… probably the intensity will be 1800 lux.
Also, XM-L LEDs have a very large emitting surface compared to the XP-G and so much more diffused light beam in a torch with parabolic reflector and that give a lower intensity compared to smaller LEDs.
Battery life: If they drive it @2000mA, with a decent battery of around 5000 mAh you can get something like 1,5/2 hours before the voltage cut-off.
I would like to test it and look at the drive-current: I will buy one and post test results after that…
Cheers!
-
The Cree XM-L T6 LED have an output of 280 Lumen@700mA and can give you 910 lumen@3000mA… above 3000mA, after very short time it burns. No way that you can take out 1000 lumen, let alone 1800!
They probably mixed-up Lumen and Lux… probably the intensity will be 1800 lux.
Also, XM-L LEDs have a very large emitting surface compared to the XP-G and so much more diffused light beam in a torch with parabolic reflector and that give a lower intensity compared to smaller LEDs.
Battery life: If they drive it @2000mA, with a decent battery of around 5000 mAh you can get something like 1,5/2 hours before the voltage cut-off.
I would like to test it and look at the drive-current: I will buy one and post test results after that…
Cheers!
Hi all,
I received the torch and proceeded to test.
The torch is maked Ultrafire but the seller is Banggood.com… black-listed in Ultrafire website as a seller of counterfeit Ultrafire products. Check this http://www.ultrafire-shop.net/page3.php
The first thing i did was to open the torch to visual check the mechanical finish level and o-ring placement:
– Mechanical: Finish of threading is not the best but is what you expect on a 150 kr torch.. I will have to be careful when close it again to avoid nasty threading-jump.
– O-rings: One of the o-ring at the tube-head joint was cut in three points by bad workmanship: the o-ring was pinched on the threading and damaged. Watertightness is surely compromised especially if you open it and close it again (which you do as you need to replace battery..)
– Switch Magnet: It is mounted on the rotating plastic ring and is just clipped-in without any protection. It will rust very quickly when in contact with salt water and very likely will make the switching operation difficult until will eventually stop working. It is already rusted on the surface.Electronic check:
Battery installed is a Li-Ion rechargeable 18650 2600mAh (no need to check battery time right now)
– Measured forward current @ 100% output = 2020 mA
– Forward voltage 3,24 V
– LED is a Cree XM-L assumed to be type T6From the Cree datasheet, the XM-L, with a forward current of 2000 mA have a luminous flux of 692 lumen… not even close to the advertised 1800 lumen… :S
The LED apcb (that is the aluminium plate on which the LED is fixed) was installed on the internal coolhead with just a smear of heat-conductive paste, not enough to guarantee the proper heat-transfer that enhance LED performances and protect it from roasting. The coolhead is also not touching the external body, with the result of reducing the efficiency of the radiator wings on the external coolhead part.
After replacing the damaged o-ring, added silicone grease and removing the electronic/LED/battery i have made a pressure test @ 5 and 80 m and it passed, unsurprisingly as not-rechargeable torches are quite tough to flood if the o-ring is in good shape and clean.
Beam quality: The reflector is flat-sided with a parabolic bottom. The center-spot is around 2 degree half angle and much more intense of the surrounding corona. At a first glance it is a regular all-round ligh for outdoor but i fear that the beam will be too narrow for spearfishing and the corona too weak to be of any use if not giving reflection… Will probably be quite cool with that light-saber feeling! I will dive-test is next weekend in Langeland.
Cheers
-
-
Forum er sponseret af
- Du skal være logget ind for at svare på dette indlæg.
