Viser 38 svartråde
  • Forfatter
    Indlæg
    • #6558

      Mads Broe
      Deltager

      …Så gik det hverken værre eller bedre end at jeg besluttede mig for at bygge en ny harpun, og da jeg lider af et massivt underskud af træ-forarbejdningsmaskiner, men råder over en fornuftig finmekanik maskinpark, faldt valget på en kulfiberharpun.
      Og, når man nu alligevel har proppen af, kunne man jo lige så godt bygge en roller.

      Nu skulle jeg nok have startet denne tråd før jeg gik i gang, på den anden side har jeg læst alt hvad jeg kunne finde om emnet så jeg er ikke helt blank, men nu her hvor den er næsten færdig slår det mig at der må være andre herinde som har stiftet bekendtskab med rollers, eller forsøgt sig med at bygge en (Morfar, var der ikke noget med at du moddede din Riffe?).

      Det jeg leder efter er hvad I andre har af meninger og erfaringer, gerne ang. dimensionering af stumperne, men alt har interesse.

      Og ja, selvfølgelig har jeg taget billeder af processen og kyler det hele op som en blog når alt er klart.:)

    • #6559

      Anders
      Deltager

      Har du læst Lambertos tråd på naknemo? Det er umiddelbart den bedste (og eneste) tråd hvor konstruktionen af en rollergun bliver beskrevet ordentligt. I hvert fald på danske fora. Men det lyder spændende. Jeg glæder mig til at se billederne og resultatet.

    • #6560

      Mads Broe
      Deltager

      Nej, jeg har haft lidt problemer med at få oprettet en profil, men det skulle vist fungere snart.

    • #6566

      @ Mace, jo jeg fik lavet min Riffe om til en roller – virker fantastisk!

      Jeg har planer om at få den lagt op som en blog også (mangler bare 27 timers døgn) så er der måske lidt inspiration.

      /Morfar

    • #6576

      Lamberto Azzi
      Deltager

      Hi!

      Rollers are going around in Italy for at least 30 years (check in the Spearfishing Museum in Grosseto…) and they have became popular again 10 years ago when components like release mechanisms etc. start to be available for DIY.

      I built one when i was 17-18 and that make LONG time ago! that one broke in splinters… :S

      If you build a roller, i suggest the classic “G-Roll Evo” model that is the one dark-brown on the pictures. This gun is easy to build, minimum hardware, excellent performances and better precision of most of it’s family members because the reduced effect of rubber-flipping at the end of the release action.

      The goal of a roller can be resumed in:

      – Same power of a 130cm double-rubber concentrated on a gun long as a 90cm
      – Better precision and less recoil than any regular arbalete gun
      – Capacity of reducing power on the same gun during the dive

      This roller (85cm rubber action) was tested by me and Martin few weeks ago with high speed camera. We tested a large bundle of guns, including 100 Sporasub Carbon, 110 C4 double rubber, 140 Picasso single rubber, G-roll EVO 85, G-roll EVO 115. Target @ 4m from the spear tip.

      The best guns where the C4 and the G-roll 85: precision and range where the same and both extremely good. Picasso and G-roll 115 where badly trimmed and missed the target all times also because the waves that are more disturbing on long guns…

      Remember that i speak of length in terms of “rubbers-action”… many brands name the length of their guns with numbers that have nothing to do with reality!

      I am 100% for rollerguns and would not change with anything else if given a choice.

      Now, anyway is the time for a new era of advanced guns… the “Compound” race!

      I needed a gun that can freeze a large trout at 5m and, at the same time and with same power, can shoot a torsk between rocks at point-blank without damaging the spear too much…

      The solution is to achieve the range and needed trout-penetration with speed and not brute force… less rubber and higher exit speed…

      Roller spears are comparatively shorter than the power-equivalent arbalete and need to make-up the lost weight by using a larger rod (typically you will use a 7 or 7,5mm spear) and if you use a thinner spear you risk to have too much spin and loose precision… heavier spears are also slower to accelerate and travel at lower speed starting the descent parabola earlier so need a lot of trust to get at the 5m needed.

      My new gun is a Compound with rubber action of 85 cm and it has the length of a traditional 90cm gun.

      It can shoot a torsk at point blank and a trout at 4m with one single couple of rubber 18mm @ 350%… it can mount 2 demultiplied couples of rubbers and one straight-connected couple: with this setup i can pierce a 300 kg tuna at 5m and still catch some torsk on the way! This gun is part of a commercial project that may see the light during summer. This new gun can be armed with “ordinary” roller sheaves or straight rubbers, making it the most versatile gun on the market!

      Of course, when the spear has left the muzzle at high speed, it is better that there are no rocks behind! The point-blank shot can be done only when the fish is very close so that the trust on the spear is still very low because of the couple of sheaves!

      I will bring my guns at Langeland the 24 and you can have a look and try the compounds: i have still the 85 and a 65 that i use for cave-hunting.

      Cheers!

      Compound 85

      Compound 85

      G-roll Evo 85

      G-roll Evo 85

      Comparison with Omer 75 T20 Carbon

    • #6584

      Mads Broe
      Deltager

      Rollers are going around in Italy for at least 30 years (check in the Spearfishing Museum in Grosseto…) and they have became popular again 10 years ago when components like release mechanisms etc. start to be available for DIY.

      Yeah, they appear to be quite popular in Italy, I wonder why it has taken the rest of us so long to catch up on the “news”.

      I built one when i was 17-18 and that make LONG time ago! that one broke in splinters… :S

      As HammerFall phrased it in the song Glory to the Brave “nothing on earth stays forever”, which is a good excuse to build a new and better gun.:)

      If you build a roller, i suggest the classic “G-Roll Evo” model that is the one dark-brown on the pictures. This gun is easy to build, minimum hardware, excellent performances and better precision of most of it’s family members because the reduced effect of rubber-flipping at the end of the release action.

      The problem is that I have neither the wood working tools for the job, nor the space. I do however have both tools/machines and room for something that can be broken up into smaller sections and worked on individually.
      Besides, I’m almost done, all that remains is to rig up the bands, water proof the tube, glue on the shaft guide, make a couple of stainless inserts and finish the band retainers.

      But when I get the chance I’m definitely building a wood gun, and I like the variable power option you’ve got on that Evo 85’er.
      As far as my new gun goes, it’s hard to tell exactly what I’ll end up with of power options, of course there’s the three sharkfins, but they aren’t that far apart, and then there’s the option to pre stretch the main bands beyond what I get from having rollers, by a secondary set of shorter bands.
      As for muzzle velocity I’m a bit in the dark, main bands are 15.5mm and secondary bands are 17.5mm but will be stretched by pulley @ 2:1 ratio so it should have a fairly decent effect on the main bands, and I might upgrade the mains to 17.5mm at some point.

      Now, anyway is the time for a new era of advanced guns… the “Compound” race!

      I think something like that was actually built back in the 60’s, although I guess it wasn’t actually a speargun, but more like an advanced Hawaiian due to lack of trigger.

      I needed a gun that can freeze a large trout at 5m and, at the same time and with same power, can shoot a torsk between rocks at point-blank without damaging the spear too much…

      The solution is to achieve the range and needed trout-penetration with speed and not brute force… less rubber and higher exit speed…

      Agreed, and that would demand a lighter spear, but lighter spears like any other non-self propelled projectile will suffer worse from water/air resistence than a heavier projectile as their energy retention isn’t as good, so in our case I think someone needs to come up with a totally new spear design.

      Roller spears are comparatively shorter than the power-equivalent arbalete and need to make-up the lost weight by using a larger rod (typically you will use a 7 or 7,5mm spear) and if you use a thinner spear you risk to have too much spin and loose precision… heavier spears are also slower to accelerate and travel at lower speed starting the descent parabola earlier so need a lot of trust to get at the 5m needed.

      So far I’m going with a 6.5mm X 115 on an 80cm (band action) gun, I’d have preferred a 7mm spear but couldn’t get the desired length/diameter/sharkfin combo so I setteled for a thinner spear.
      …Guess we’ll have to see how that pans out…

      My new gun is a Compound with rubber action of 85 cm and it has the length of a traditional 90cm gun.

      It can shoot a torsk at point blank and a trout at 4m with one single couple of rubber 18mm @ 350%… it can mount 2 demultiplied couples of rubbers and one straight-connected couple: with this setup i can pierce a 300 kg tuna at 5m and still catch some torsk on the way! This gun is part of a commercial project that may see the light during summer. This new gun can be armed with “ordinary” roller sheaves or straight rubbers, making it the most versatile gun on the market!

      I can’t wait to see it, hope it makes it through the trials! :woohoo:

      Of course, when the spear has left the muzzle at high speed, it is better that there are no rocks behind! The point-blank shot can be done only when the fish is very close so that the trust on the spear is still very low because of the couple of sheaves!

      I will bring my guns at Langeland the 24 and you can have a look and try the compounds: i have still the 85 and a 65 that i use for cave-hunting.

      I’m afraid I won’t be able to make it to Langeland, too much stuff to take care of. 🙁

    • #6611

      Hej

      En kammerat og jeg er i fuld gang med lidt hjemmebyg på en rollergun.

      Den 1. er mere mindre færdig.

      Planen var at have en allroundgun der kan klare det meste, men den er måske lidt voldsom til danske forhold. Kommer med billed/specs senere

      Hans Henrik

    • #6618

      Lamberto Azzi
      Deltager

      Hi Mace,

      Here is the pic of a roller from the 70s that is now at the museum in Grosseto. I think is from USA… The design is a bit crude but surely effective in caves.

      I think your rubbers should be stretched minimum 250%. I would suggest 350% as maximum power. If You start 210%, you can always shorten them if you feel it ne

      The additional rubber on the return should work well but I never test it: it has been used in the first G-roll 🙂 model that has been very popular.

      Post some pictures… We are curious now 🙂

    • #6628

      Mads Broe
      Deltager

      Hej

      En kammerat og jeg er i fuld gang med lidt hjemmebyg på en rollergun.

      Den 1. er mere mindre færdig.

      Planen var at have en allroundgun der kan klare det meste, men den er måske lidt voldsom til danske forhold. Kommer med billed/specs senere

      Hans Henrik

      Ja, jeg tænker også at man må kunne komme tættere på at få en all-around skyder. Ser frem til at lure lidt pix.

      I think your rubbers should be stretched minimum 250%. I would suggest 350% as maximum power. If You start 210%, you can always shorten them if you feel it ne

      I was thinking 300% on first pull, and then at least 50% extra on the second, considering I won’t have to pull more than half the strength of the lower bands it shouldn’t be too much of a problem, to be honest I think I could probably get in excess of 350%.

      The additional rubber on the return should work well but I never test it: it has been used in the first G-roll 🙂 model that has been very popular.

      Seems like I’m on the right track then,:)

      Post some pictures… We are curious now 🙂

      Okay, here’s a couple of teasers:


      As you can see I used a Concept handle from Imersion, it’s reinforced internally with a polyurethane casting plastic called Poly-Optic I heated to 60°C to improve the strength, furthermore I sunk a 5mm pianowire rod into the plastic before it hardened to give it a bit more strength lenght-wise as I knew I’d have to drill a hole through it later.
      The thumb-rest have been turned around so it sits higher now, and the line release was made from a sheet of 0.5mm stainless steel. The visible rod going through the front end just forward of the trigger, will hold one end of the lines used to tighten the secondary set of bands.
      I removed the original line-release and filled the cavity left, with more Poly-Optic.
      Oh, and I decided to improve the safety, originally you’ll have to turn a microscopic little switch some 180° to arm the gun, and that’s close to impossible wearing gloves…
      Now the safety has a big, nice lever that’s easy to manipulate, and the gun can be armed by simply flipping the safety about 30° with your thumb.:)

      The muzzle is made from a plastic called POM-C (also sold under the name Delrin), I made it on a lathe and a mill. The shiny “button” you think is a Neodymium magnet, is not surprinsingly, just that.
      When it’s finished and installed in the tube, I’ll put on a shaft guide to cover the magnet.

    • #6631

      Lamberto Azzi
      Deltager

      Good job!

      From your description seems that you are a mechanical engineer or something like?

      Maybe you already thought about it but remember the wishbone-stopper on the muzzle or the wishbone will pinch the line before it get out after the spear: 2 rods 4mm A4 should do and just need drilling.

      Detail of roller head and wishbone-stopper.

      I seal all magnets with a small quantity of casting epoxy so they do not rust.

      Ciao!

      Attachments:
    • #6638

      Mads Broe
      Deltager

      No, I’m not a mechanical engineer, at least not by education, I do special effects and on occasion professional firework shows. 🙂

      As for the wishbone stopper I’d hoped I could simply pretend like i didn’t need it 😆 , but you’re right, of course I need to make it.
      I don’t have any 4mm stainless, do you think 3mm could do the trick?

    • #6665

      Lamberto Azzi
      Deltager

      3mm can do well: start from 0 level until +10mm and go as forward as you can with it because the sheaves you mount are parallel and the rubber will tend to flip forward.

      Ciao!

    • #6706

      Mads Broe
      Deltager

      Thanks, looks like it worked as supposed, here’s a bunch of pix:

      Compared to my Seatec TRB 77.

      I decided not to make a pulley system as I figured I could get more power by stretching the secondary set of bands further than would be possible with a pulley. When I’ve tested it I plan on shortening the lower bands as much as I can, while still being able to load it.

      I found out the 3mm stainless was surprisingly easy to work with, so I finished the muzzle with the same wire I made the wishbone stopper from.


      Well, guess that’s it, all I need to do now is balance it.:)

    • #6709

      Blog Mace blooooooog 🙂

    • #6710

      Jimmy Jensen
      Deltager

      Enig med Morfar! vildere blog

      Kunne også godt tænke mig at høre lidt pros / cons på sådan en rollergun (ift. normale harpuner – hvis man kan kalde dem det?)

      Hvorfor Rollerguns og hvad er forskellen på normale harpuner og rollerguns – forklaring for dummies tak :whistle:

      Det kunne evt. indgå i din blog, som en lille appetizer inden du kaster dig over forklaring til “gør-det-selv-byg”

    • #6711

      Lamberto Azzi
      Deltager

      Nice job… Almost done!

      There is way too much rubber on and they must be much shorter: the first rubber loaded alone should be stretched between 250 to 300% and, together with the secondary, they should be stretched at 350-400%.

      I have seen this kind of conversions before and they had a retaining line between the rubber-fix-point on the tube and the middle-wishbone so that it stay 10-15cm from the muzzle and achieve the necessary stretch.

      I would put back the line-release on the trigger-guard or make a clip system and use the two bolts to fix a Y shaped hook to be able to fix the secondary rubber on one single point to be able to load in one single movement. I guess the wishbone at the spear is sliding laterally if you pull one side a time.

      If you want have some fun and maybe some idea… Rollers and compounds from the 50es forward! http://www.apneateam.info/ArchivioIZ/PescaSubacqueaaiTropici/AttrezzatureTropicali/FuciliarbaretesepneumaticiAllSpearguns/FUCILEROLLERPRIMAPARTE/tabid/827/Default.aspx and http://www.apneateam.info/ArchivioAI/PescaSubacqueaaiTropici/AttrezzatureTropicali/FuciliarbaretesepneumaticiAllSpearguns/TESTATEROLLER/tabid/825/Default.aspx …. translate from Italian with Chrome or similar…

      Ciao!

    • #6722

      Mads Broe
      Deltager

      Blog Mace blooooooog 🙂

      Der er stadig lidt tilpasning, der skal nok komme en blog når det er tid.:)

      Enig med Morfar! vildere blog

      Kunne også godt tænke mig at høre lidt pros / cons på sådan en rollergun (ift. normale harpuner – hvis man kan kalde dem det?)

      Hvorfor Rollerguns og hvad er forskellen på normale harpuner og rollerguns – forklaring for dummies tak :whistle:

      Lamberto beskrev det meget godt, synes jeg; mere energi i spyddet i forhold til længden på harpunen, mindre rekyl, og potentiel mulighed for at variere skudstyrken.

      Det kunne evt. indgå i din blog, som en lille appetizer inden du kaster dig over forklaring til “gør-det-selv-byg”

      Tjah, det er nok ikke nogen dårlig ide, jeg havde egentlig tænkt mig at fokusere mest på dimensionerne da det er den slags info jeg havde sværest ved at finde.

      Nice job… Almost done!

      There is way too much rubber on and they must be much shorter: the first rubber loaded alone should be stretched between 250 to 300% and, together with the secondary, they should be stretched at 350-400%.

      Yup, there’s too much rubber on, but I kind of just threw on some bands I had lying around, you know, I just wanted to see something that could actually launch a spear and didn’t care too much about correct length. 😆
      Don’t worry, I’ll do something about it right away.

      I have seen this kind of conversions before and they had a retaining line between the rubber-fix-point on the tube and the middle-wishbone so that it stay 10-15cm from the muzzle and achieve the necessary stretch.

      I would put back the line-release on the trigger-guard or make a clip system and use the two bolts to fix a Y shaped hook to be able to fix the secondary rubber on one single point to be able to load in one single movement. I guess the wishbone at the spear is sliding laterally if you pull one side a time.

      Ok, looks like it’s back to the drawing board, some of the options you suggest wouldn’t be possible on this gun as I modified the handle too far though, but overall we agree, this needs to be rigged up differently.

      If you want have some fun and maybe some idea… Rollers and compounds from the 50es forward! http://www.apneateam.info/ArchivioIZ/PescaSubacqueaaiTropici/AttrezzatureTropicali/FuciliarbaretesepneumaticiAllSpearguns/FUCILEROLLERPRIMAPARTE/tabid/827/Default.aspx and http://www.apneateam.info/ArchivioAI/PescaSubacqueaaiTropici/AttrezzatureTropicali/FuciliarbaretesepneumaticiAllSpearguns/TESTATEROLLER/tabid/825/Default.aspx …. translate from Italian with Chrome or similar…

      Ciao!

      Thanks.

    • #6745

      Mads Broe
      Deltager

      Latest modification, primary and secondary bands switched place, and the secondaries were cut in half, still the same amount of rubber, just redistributed.

      I’ll need to make a few retainer plates/knobs on the rear bolt though, to make sure the second pair of secondaries won’t slip off.

    • #6748

      Lamberto Azzi
      Deltager

      Now looks very good!

      I wold make the rubber loops much shorter (2-2.5 cm max) and remove that line between upper and lower rubbers. So you can use all the available length for power.

      Can you send me this measures for calculation?
      – Center sheave to spear notch
      – center sheave to stock notch or fix point
      – sheave inner diameter.

      I will assume that the wishbones length knot-to-knot is 60mm. I mean the knots on the rubber.

      Ciao!

      Attachments:
    • #6749

      Lamberto Azzi
      Deltager

      And also the rubbers length! 🙂

    • #6751

      Mads Broe
      Deltager

      Now looks very good!

      Well, it’s my first homemade.;)

      I wold make the rubber loops much shorter (2-2.5 cm max) and remove that line between upper and lower rubbers. So you can use all the available length for power.

      The connecting lines and the loops on the secondaries can be shortened, but we’re getting close to what I’m comfortable with loading out of the water, the mains are a real bitch to pull just to the second shark fin…
      I’m not sure it’s possible to remove the connecting lines completely, the rubber is getting stretched pretty thin already, as in “when that rubber breaks, someone is going to get hurt!”

      Can you send me this measures for calculation?
      – Center sheave to spear notch
      – center sheave to stock notch or fix point
      – sheave inner diameter.

      Yup:
      Center sheave to spear notch –
      1st – 64.5cm
      2nd – 74.5cm
      3rd – 84.5cm
      Apparently 10cm increments, guess it makes sense…

      Center sheave to center of fix point, fix point being Ø10mm – 83.5cm

      Sheave inner Ø – 25mm.

      Main band length (the active part) – 23cm.

      Secondary bands length (the active part) – 19.5cm

      I will assume that the wishbones length knot-to-knot is 60mm. I mean the knots on the rubber.

      Just to make sure we understand each other, the length of the actual wisbone line (the replaceable part) is 60 mm, the distance between the constrictor knots on the rubber is 16cm, the wishbone line can easily be shortened though.

      While I’m at it, thanks for helping me out, it means a lot.:)

    • #6752

      Lamberto Azzi
      Deltager

      Wishbone length is measured between the two constrictor knots.
      The measure from your c. knot and the top of the loop is around 50mm?

      If this is correct then you have 800mm of usable top distance and 685mm under: this connecting top and lower bands directly without any rope.

      On top band you have about 348% extension and under about 351%: perfect!

      Load it in the water just because the first times a wishbone can give-up (already got in the face myself… :pinch: )

      Basically now you have a regular gun if you load only he top rubbers, a roller with one secondary couple of rubbers and a turbo-roller with the second… Great!

      The gun is in aluminum? It should be solid enough..

      I am looking forward to hear about the first shot!

    • #6753

      Lamberto Azzi
      Deltager

      Google a guy called Dapiran (italian language only I fear): he has a rubber system like yours if i remember well…

      Try “Dapiran fucile”

      Cheers

    • #6754

      Lamberto Azzi
      Deltager

      Here it is: he don’t like rollers but the principle is the same

      http://www.dapiran.it/web1.5/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=88&Itemid=100080&lang=it

    • #6756

      Mads Broe
      Deltager

      Wishbone length is measured between the two constrictor knots.
      The measure from your c. knot and the top of the loop is around 50mm?

      Nope, my calipers says 75mm, but I can easily adjust it to 50mm.

      If this is correct then you have 800mm of usable top distance and 685mm under: this connecting top and lower bands directly without any rope.

      On top band you have about 348% extension and under about 351%: perfect!

      Sounds good, but I think I could have a bit of trouble pulling the lower bands if I eliminated the connection lines between the mains and secondaries entirely. Shortening them would be doable, and sort of expected though.

      Load it in the water just because the first times a wishbone can give-up (already got in the face myself… :pinch: )

      Yup, I got a reminder last night when one of the Dynema lines slipped out and caught me across the hand and thumb, and that wasn’t even under full tension. 😆

      [EDIT] I’ve learned to make damn sure my knots are damn tight…[/EDIT]

      Basically now you have a regular gun if you load only he top rubbers, a roller with one secondary couple of rubbers and a turbo-roller with the second… Great!

      Yay! :cheer:

      The gun is in aluminum? It should be solid enough..

      Nope, it’s carbon.:)
      Dimensions are inner/outer Ø 26/30mm.

      I am looking forward to hear about the first shot!

      Not surprisingly, I’m looking forward to report about it.:)

    • #7383

      Mads Broe
      Deltager

      What I’ve learned so far…

      -This gun won’t hit the target unless you actually use the sights, however if you do it puts the spear dead center, at least at ~2mtr, but more shots are needed in daylight to accurately determine its performance.

      -It isn’t as nose heavy as I’d feared, it seems to be fairly well balanced from the get go, but overall it’s a bit too heavy (it’ll sink with a shaft in it, but do so horizontally).

      -Without a shaft it’s got tons of positive buoyancy, so at least it’s out of the way after shot.

      -It could use a reel, messing around with a bunch of free floating line is a nuisance, but maybe that’s just me.

      -It’s got a bit more recoil than I’d expected, as I’d expected none, but nowhere near what my double-band TRB has got.

      -Reloading is a bit slow, probably due to being a new gun I don’t know like the back of my hand.

      Overall I’m satistfied, but I need to get to know it.:)

    • #7396

      Lamberto Azzi
      Deltager

      Great! Yes… some practice is needed because is indeed more complex than a regular gun…

      Regarding precision and recoil: what size of rubbers you are using? THe mass of the spear and the mass of the rubbers should be balanced… try with a 7mm spear…

      Get it ready for August… something big is boiling up!!

      Ciao!

    • #7397

      Mads Broe
      Deltager

      ^^The mains are 17.5mm, the secondaries are 15.5mm.

      Originally I wanted a 7mm shaft but couldn’t find anything thicker than a 6.5mm, that had shark fins…

      As for August, I’ll do my best to get out&under.:)

      But all in all, my new gun performed pretty good, got me a nice fish that supposedly shouldn’t even live there, and it tasted great.:)

    • #7405

      Var det en stor og fed guppy?

      🙂

      /Morfar

    • #7409

      Mads Broe
      Deltager

      ^^Nej, det var en næsten 2kg’s Suder, pløkket i Øresund på et natdyk, hvad har jeg vundet? :cheer:

    • #7414

      En hat, lavet af skum ??

      🙂

    • #7415

      Mads Broe
      Deltager

      At skyde en ferskvandsfisk i saltvand burde som minimum gi’ en hat lavet af lakrids… Mindst! 😆

    • #7418

      Lamberto Azzi
      Deltager

      ??? Suder translate as “Tinca” in Italian!!! is it something like this?

      Attachments:
    • #7422

      Mads Broe
      Deltager

      Spot on!

      It shouldn’t be present in saltwater…
      Ok, Øresund is pretty brackish, but according to a guy named Henrik Carl from the Natural History Museum of Denmark, it’s -quote “very rare to see this fish in water with that high a salt concentration” end quote- so I guess that makes me one lucky spearfisher.:)

      EDIT: Here’s a pic of the one I shot:

    • #7424

      Okay, så efter 150 millioner års udvikling bevæger den første sude sig forsigtigt ud i lidt mere salt vand – en revolution som biologer har drømt om, og som muligvis kan udrydde al forurening på jorden…Hvorefter du vælger at gengælde dens drastighed med 1 meter kold stål og en tur i hakkemaskinen så den kan blive til frikadeller?!??

    • #7425

      martin
      Deltager

      Så kan den jo lære at holde s(n)uden for sig selv.

    • #7427

      Mads Broe
      Deltager

      Okay, så efter 150 millioner års udvikling bevæger den første sude sig forsigtigt ud i lidt mere salt vand – en revolution som biologer har drømt om, og som muligvis kan udrydde al forurening på jorden…Hvorefter du vælger at gengælde dens drastighed med 1 meter kold stål og en tur i hakkemaskinen så den kan blive til frikadeller?!??

      Det var nu ikke den første, der blev fanget en i Rungsted havn for et par år siden, og den biolog eller hvad han nu er, som jeg skrev til, var meget glad for at få den indrapporteret, havde han ment at jeg burde have ladet den være, havde han nok bedt mig om ikke at skyde den næste.
      Hvis det betyder det helt store for dig, ska’ jeg nok la’ den næste gå.;)

      Om en Suder i Øresund har mulighed for at udrydde al forurening på jorden tvivler jeg dog kraftigt på, men hvis de har så synes jeg da det er på tide at vi får fremavlet en hel spandfuld med høj salt-tolerance, jeg vil endda gå så langt at jeg vil overveje at tilskynde lidt gen-fifleri.

      Jeg ville gerne have lavet den om til noget andet end frikadeller, men jeg er en elendig kok så jeg ville sikkert have fået spoleret den helt hvis jeg havde forsøgt mig med noget sværere.

      Og tænk lidt over det, hvem havde taget mit ord for gode varer, hvis ikke der var nogen form for dokumentation? Det var først efter at jeg havde sat spyddet i den, at de andre på dykket så den.
      Havde det været bedre ikke at skyde den, og blive kaldt løgner, blind, eller noget helt tredje?

    • #7428

      Lamberto Azzi
      Deltager

      Now came the important question… how does it taste??

      In rivers and lakes the fish taste a bit “muddy”… i guess this was properly cleaned and “seasoned” by salty water?

      Great catch!!

    • #7429

      Mads Broe
      Deltager

      Now came the important question… how does it taste??

      In rivers and lakes the fish taste a bit “muddy”… i guess this was properly cleaned and “seasoned” by salty water?

      It didn’t taste muddy at all, I’d describe it like cod or something similar.

      Great catch!!

      Thanks.:)

Forum er sponseret af

Viser 38 svartråde
  • Du skal være logget ind for at svare på dette indlæg.